Seoul's Ultimate Rainy Day Food: A Guide to Jeon & Makgeolli in Hongdae

There's a magic to rainy days in Seoul. It's the perfect excuse to find a cozy spot and indulge in the ultimate Korean comfort food pairing: crispy, savory pancakes (jeon) and a bowl of milky rice wine (makgeolli). If you want to experience this tradition like a local, there's a hidden gem in Yeonnam-dong you need to know about: Jangkijeon (장기전).

It was raining, and the craving hit. I wanted real Korean food, the kind that warms you from the inside out. My feet led me to this unassuming basement pub in the heart of Hongdae's trendy Yeonnam-dong neighborhood. From the outside, it’s a humble entrance, but it leads to a place brimming with flavor and character.

The Vibe: A Retro Hideout with a Story

Step inside Jangkijeon and you're transported. The name itself comes from a classic Korean opera (pansori), and the interior reflects that sense of history and art. It’s a cozy, retro-style pub—a flavorful canteen where you can immediately relax. The warm lighting and bustling atmosphere make it the perfect place to settle in for the evening.

The Main Event: The Jangkijeon Platter

Of course, you have to order the signature Jangkijeon. This isn't just any pancake platter. The care and quality here are immediately obvious. The platter comes loaded with different types of jeon, but the stars are the meat jeon (yukjeon) and shrimp jeon (saewoojeon).

The yukjeon is rich but surprisingly not greasy. But the saewoojeon is where you can really taste the chef's attention to detail. It seems they strain the egg wash before cooking, resulting in a pancake that is incredibly soft and delicate. It’s these little things that make the food here so special.

Beyond the Pancakes: A Feast of Flavors

While the jeon is a must-try, the other dishes are just as incredible. The Beef Bulgogi Hotpot (소고기 버섯전골) is a bubbling cauldron of comfort. The savory-sweet broth is filled with tender beef and mushrooms, and it's so delicious you'll find yourself finishing every last drop—and probably ordering a bowl of rice to soak it all up.

To drink, you have to try the Dogatjip Makgeolli (도가집 막걸리). It's a rare find, a raw rice wine that is perfectly carbonated at the peak of its fermentation. It's crisp, refreshing, and dangerously easy to drink.

The Secret Weapon: The Side Dishes

In Korea, you can often judge a restaurant by its side dishes (banchan), and Jangkijeon's are next-level. It turns out, the owners also run a high-end Korean set-menu restaurant called Gomijeong. That expertise shines through in the side dishes, which are so good you could drink two bottles of makgeolli with them alone. This isn't just pub food; it's food made with passion and skill.

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Your Quick Guide to Jangkijeon

• Name: Jangkijeon (장기전)
• Address: B1, 190-33, Seongmisan-ro, Mapo-gu, Seoul
• How to Get There: Take the subway to Hongik University Station (Line 2, Gyeongui-Jungang Line, AREX), and walk from Exit 3. It's located in the heart of Yeonnam-dong.
• Hours: Tuesday - Sunday: 5:00 PM - 12:00 AM (Closed on Mondays)
• Contact: 010-2436-1633

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A Local's Guide: 3 Ways to Explore Yeonnam-dong

Jangkijeon is the perfect starting point for exploring the charming streets of Yeonnam-dong. Here are a few curated itineraries to help you experience the neighborhood like a local.

Course 1: The Traditional Korean Experience

• Jangkijeon: Start your evening with delicious food and traditional liquor.
• Unicus Coffee: After your meal, head to this nearby cafe for their famous Einspänner with a unique yuzu twist. Grab a window seat to people-watch in the Yeonnam-dong alleys.
• Yeonnam Park (Yeontral Park): End your night with a relaxing stroll through this beautiful park, a favorite spot for locals.

Course 2: The Hip Cafe & Bakery Tour

• Kakushita: Begin your adventure at this stylish, hidden bar for a pre-dinner drink.
• Jangkijeon: Enjoy your main meal of jeon and makgeolli.
• Neighborhood Bakery: Wander through the alleys and discover a local bakery. Grab some fresh bread to enjoy in the park for a perfect, simple dessert.

Course 3: A Taste of Old and New Yeonnam-dong

• Yeonnam Market: Explore the small shops and food stalls of this traditional market to get a feel for the neighborhood's history.
• Jangkijeon: Enjoy a modern take on classic Korean pub food.
• Unique Small Shops: Browse the independent boutiques and shops near the market to find unique souvenirs and get a sense of the local creative scene.

If you're looking for a bar in Yeonnam-dong that serves truly exceptional Korean food without any regrets, you have to go to Jangkijeon. It's a decision you won't regret.